The Rubbish-Picker's Wife: an unlikely friendship in Kosovo by Elizabeth Gowing

Author:Elizabeth Gowing [Gowing, Elizabeth]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780957409033
Publisher: Elbow Publishing
Published: 2015-06-26T21:00:00+00:00

‘You know, I’ve got to go and collect the nettles,’ he explained. ‘To flick water at people with in the morning for Shëngjergj.’ I let him bounce away with springtime in his step – just like Hikmete would have done four years ago.

The battle for the souls of Fushë Kosovë’s inhabitants (whether with four legs or two) was a public and ongoing redefinition of customs and beliefs. While the newspapers in Britain ached over the meanings, opportunities and threats of Islam, here in Neighbourhood 29 every day girls were deciding whether or not to pull on their headscarves, mothers were having to choose whether to sacrifice a lamb for their son’s health, or to obey the posters in the shop windows; men were learning new arithmetic for paradise.

We had one volunteer at our activities who was a gifted educator, telling stories that had the children wide-eyed and silent as he spoke. He came once a week and I’d always be pleased to see him, and would greet him, along with all his colleagues. After months of working with us, he came in one day and with an enthusiastic smile I said good morning and extended my hand. With a charming smile as his hand swooped away from mine to touch his chest he said, ‘I respect you very much Elizabeth; maybe you understand.’

I didn’t understand; I felt like I’d been slapped. I was suddenly aware of myself both as a woman and as somehow dirty as a result. I’m old enough to be this guy’s mother, and I started wondering whether there could honestly be a belief that I could lead him into sexual trespass. It made me furious – and also somehow afraid – watching a person, and maybe a community, change from week to week. I felt a hot flame of frustration and anger in my chest – right at the point where my colleague’s hand had been held to his heart. I resolved that whenever I felt it burn I would take it as a reminder to myself of the importance of offering literacy, making connections with a wider world, teaching critical thinking, and creating a sense of belonging beyond a faith community. That could be my small part of the fight against fundamentalism.

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